Canoeing the Upper Shoalhaven Gorge
This trip is still fresh in my mind, and it feels like the right time to reflect on three unforgettable days of hiking and canoeing through the Shoalhaven Gorge.
What followed was a test of grit, stubbornness and endurance, but also a journey filled with beauty, camaraderie and gratitude. Looking back, I see it not just as three days of canoeing and hiking, but as an adventure that reminded me why I love this river, and why these challenges are worth every step.
My connection to the river
Before this trip, my relationship with the Upper Shoalhaven Gorge was a mix of envy and curiosity. I’ve got friends who’ve paddled the entire 327 kilometres of the Shoalhaven from its source to the sea. Whereas I can confidently say that I've only explored maybe the last third of it.
I have such a deep connection to the river that it feels almost like knowing someone really well, yet realising there’s a whole side of them you’ve never seen. That’s how it is with the Shoalhaven for me; I feel intimately connected to part of the river, but not all of it. Strangely enough, I think this is the first time I’ve ever felt that way about a body of water.
It’s those upper reaches that excite and inspire me most. Beyond “Allen Ford” near Braidwood, access becomes almost impossible. Sheer gorge walls, limited property access, and stretches of serious whitewater - grade four and five rapids in places - make it no man’s land for the most part. Portaging (This means carrying the canoe over land. Most of the time you flip it upside down so the crossbar rests on your shoulders, steadying it with your hands) is possible but tough. That kind of challenge tweaks the adventurous side of my brain.
Because I feel so deeply connected to this river, it’s like knowing someone intimately but realising there’s a whole side of them you’ve never met. That’s how it feels to stand on the banks of those untouched sections; all the more reason for me to embark on this exciting trip.
Canoe vs packraft
In the original AG Outdoor article, I made a point of saying we chose traditional canoes. For those of you who are more experienced in canoe trips might be thinking: “why didn’t you take a packraft, Travis?” and that’s a great question. A packraft is purpose-built for this type of trip: light, portable, and forgiving for less experienced paddlers. It also makes wilderness areas far more accessible.
But Dan and I are stubborn. When we asked ourselves what we really wanted for this adventure, the answer was obvious: a hard-shell canoe. The trade-off was clear; if you want that experience, you have to be tough enough to carry the boats in. Packrafters have the opposite problem. They walk in light, but at the end of the trip face 14 kilometres of flat water in a wobbly raft that fights every stroke. We preferred the hard carry up front, knowing we’d be rewarded later on down the river.
Dan brought his partner Kaitlyn, and it was also great watching them grow as a team, learning to move in sync on whitewater. Still, if it had just been the two of us, I know we would each have taken our own canoe. We both love solo paddling, and for us, that’s what the Shoalhaven demanded.
Carrying in the canoe
From the outset, I knew this was going to be a one-way trip. That canoe was never coming back up the hill, come hell or high water.
During planning, there were two main concerns. The first was water levels. If they were too low, we’d spend the trip scraping rocks and dragging over rapids; a slow, punishing effort that would erase the reward of bringing hard-shell canoes in the first place. The second was personal. Back when I was guiding full-time, carrying a heavy pack through steep terrain didn’t faze me. But these days, I spend more time at a desk than in the bush. So suddenly I found myself throwing a 32kg canoe on my shoulders, a 20kg pack on my back, and hiking down a mountain. I knew stubbornness would get me through, but I did wonder if I’d reach the river too wrecked to paddle. It was a challenge I was willing to accept.
The best moment
Slipping the boat into the water was pure relief. All the doubts and effort of the descent disappeared in that instant. By the end of the hike, every step had been a countdown of “how many more steps until this is over?” Then suddenly, we lowered our canoes into the water, and we were off with effortless ease. With just a feather-light stroke I was immediately rewarded for the hard few hours of portaging. The descent had taken only a couple of hours, and just like that, it was behind us. What stretched ahead was three days of paddling bliss.
Lessons from the river
This trip reminded me that I’m still healthy and capable, and that age really is just a number. I’ve learned to stay on top of the little niggles before they become big ones, and adventures like this prove I can keep moving and doing things with the energy of a much younger version of myself.
I’ve also got Dan to thank as a fitness inspiration. He’s 14-15 years my junior and a die-hard fitness fanatic; the type who runs when he doesn’t feel like it. He keeps me honest and when I slack off, I feel guilty. But it’s a good guilt because it pushes me to do better. He’s strong as a bull, and brings a contagious energy with everything he does in life.
Challenge, landscape, and people
For me, the trip was about three core elements: the challenge, the landscape, and the people I was with. It made me reflect: if I’d gone alone, would I have pushed as hard? Would I have taken more breaks? Would the sense of reward have been the same without sharing it? Would the scenery have felt as rich without someone to point it out to? In the end, the answer is clear. The shared challenge, in a new and mysterious place, with people you care about, is what makes an adventure truly memorable.
Gratitude
If I had to sum up the whole experience in one word, it’s gratitude. Gratitude that a world-class destination like this is right on our doorstep. Gratitude that 15 years ago I took a punt and imported the canoes I wanted into Australia, otherwise I wouldn’t have had them for this trip. Gratitude for the chance to test myself physically, and then to paddle home through beauty I’ll never take for granted.
Looking ahead
The funny thing is, we’re already planning to do it again; this time starting further upstream. I’d asked Dan about access near the trestle track, but he dismissed it: “There’s a locked gate, too far from the river, not worth it.” Only later did we find out the gate was actually open. In fact, you could wheel a canoe on a cart for half the way, and the descent is much easier.
So now we’re thinking, great! An extra day on the river, maybe even two if we paddle upstream to explore Block Up Gorge. The idea of repeating the trip with a longer, easier run has us pretty excited. And despite how tough we made it sound, plenty of friends now want to come along. Looks like next time, we’ll have a crew!
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Sign Up HereYou can read the original in Australian Geographic Adventure article here: https://www.australiangeographic.com.au/australian-geographic-adventure/2024/12/take-a-long-line-an-upper-shoalhaven-river-canoe-adventure/
